How Martins became the most famous boots in the world

2023 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-24 13:10

These coarse, high lace-up boots have long gone beyond the subcultures and have become true classics. Today "Martins" are combined with romantic dresses and classic suits, they are worn by Hollywood actresses and ordinary schoolgirls, businessmen and students. However, the most famous boots in the history of mankind have a rich and unusual history …

Dr. Martens appeared in Germany

Despite the fact that the "Martins" are considered a kind of symbol of informal British culture, their creators were citizens of Germany. The prototype of the modern boots of the iconic brand was constructed a week after the end of the Second World War. It was like this: German military doctor Klaus Mertnes (Dr. Mertens!) Injured his leg in 1945. The usual military shoes gave him torment. So he thought about creating more comfortable boots. He got some leather, matching needles and thread … But the whole catch was in the sole. Mertens wanted to find a material that was flexible and durable at the same time, springy when walking. And made a sole from a car tire. His friend, Herbert Funk, a native of Switzerland, was very interested in Mertens' invention. Funk's origins came in handy: post-war trade restrictions that applied to all Germans did not extend to his activities.

In 1947, friends opened their factory near Munich. And they literally "forged swords into plowshares." The soles were made from discarded Luftwaffe tires, the insoles were made from epaulettes, and leather was once a military uniform. Friends believed that men who were tired of uncomfortable military shoes and who dreamed of returning to a peaceful life as soon as possible - and buying things in which it was comfortable to work, walk, just live - would like the boots.

Imagine their surprise when it turned out that 80% of consumers … are women over 40! Of course, they bought shoes for their husbands, sons, elderly fathers - but also for themselves, because the Martins were incredibly comfortable.

But "martins with a glass" is really a British invention

But skinheads and "hooligans" have nothing to do with it. The first examples of weighted military boots were invented by Benjamin Griggs in 1901. In the small town of Wollaston, he made shoes for soldiers and miners. The model of boots with a steel element sewn into the front part was called "bulldog" and was very popular - they were stable, durable, and retained their shape for a long time. The descendant and heir of the Benjamin Griggs company, Bill Griggs, after the Second World War, was actively looking for new ideas for business development. He saw the invention of Klaus Martens in one of the shoe catalogs, contacted him and bought out the production license. Griggs used the name of Dr. Martens, altering it to the British style as a tribute - but made significant changes to the design. He corrected the shape of the toe, added stitching to the sole, modified the sole itself in accordance with the latest technologies (and even patented it).

At first, Dr. Martens boots were not considered fashionable and aroused contempt among stylish youth

In the 60s, Dr. Martens boots became an official part of the uniform of the British Postal Service workers, fell in love with factory workers and thus became a symbol of the English proletariat. Fashionistas and fashionistas, representatives of bohemians did not want to be associated with some hard workers, but this only contributed to the widespread distribution of boots on the market. For the first time, ordinary workers received shoes designed according to their needs, cheap and beautiful in their own way. The first public person to wear Martins was the British politician Tony Benn, thereby expressing respect for the proletariat.

Dr. Martens' boots aroused suspicion among British police and customs

In the mid-60s, the first skinheads made Dr. Martens boots a cult. In those years, skinheads were called the main threat to national security, but they caused fear not for the same reasons as now, and they were significantly different from their modern "successors". First of all, they were concerned with the interests of the proletariat, among their ranks were black workers who had emigrated from Jamaica.. boots. Soon the police began to associate the wearing of "Martins" with extremism. The boots were often subject to confiscation. During the football championships, fearing fights, the police confiscated laces from the owners of the Martins (this did not help - the guys just started carrying spare ones with them). Another unpleasant story is connected with drug smuggling - consignments of fake Martins were used to transport illegal substances, which were conveniently hidden in the sole. Therefore, it is not uncommon for consignments of even branded shoes to be detained at customs for a long inspection.

It is known that in the 90s the association with skinheads, football hooligans and smugglers negatively affected girls' ability to buy a pair of shoes “like Sid Vicious's” - parents were horrified that their daughters wanted to look “like bandits”.

Today Dr. Martens collaborate with luxury fashion brands

In the 80s, boots became iconic for all subcultures, firmly established in the wardrobe of celebrities, they were worn by Kurt Cobain, Elton John and even the Pope … and then they returned to the wardrobe of ordinary people, not even interested in rock music.

However, at the same time, young people began to perceive the design of the classic "Martins" as too boring. They were painted with paints, colored laces were inserted, stickers were added … And the brand responded to the needs of the audience, starting to produce shoes in bright colors with kitsch decor.

Today, the most famous designers - Marc Jacobs, Rey Kawakubo, Vivienne Westwood are engaged in the design of Dr. Martens for the limited edition.