What the most exquisite fragrances are made of: Animal perfumery

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

Smells have a huge impact on our mind. Breathing in a pleasant aroma, whether it be the smell of clean clothes or homemade baked goods, we unconsciously retain it in our memory. They stir up memories and make you experience hitherto unfamiliar feelings. Perfume creates that unique enchanting trail that excites, intrigues and bewitches those around. It is curious that perfumers have long used various odorous substances of animal origin to create perfumes. Smells that smell in nature, to put it mildly, are not very pleasant, are necessary for the manufacture of the most subtle and expensive aromas.

Perfumery is a real art. It takes its origin in the Ancient World. For the first time, the art of creating perfume began to be used in Mesopotamia and Egypt. Later it spread everywhere.

For the production of fragrances, substances obtained from animal organisms were used. Almost all of them have a terrible natural smell. Experienced perfumers diluted them, subjected them to various chemical transformations. After all these procedures, these substances turned into absolutely irreplaceable materials. They are indispensable in perfume making and are sometimes incredibly difficult to obtain. The more difficult it was to do this, the more they were appreciated. Accordingly, the hunt for animals, which served as a source of precious raw materials, went on more diligently. Today, many of them can be created synthetically. Only the natural product is still incomparably more valuable.

Musk

Musk has always been appreciated by perfumers. Even in ancient times, its amazing properties were discovered. Despite the fact that this is an incredible odorous substance, it has a very pungent spicy smell, it can ennoble absolutely any aroma. Thanks to her ability to combine all the notes of the fragrance into a single composition. Unlike an alcohol base, musk does not allow volatile substances to quickly evaporate, so the scent of perfume lasts a long time and unfolds gradually. It is one of the most valuable ingredients in perfume. It is obtained from the glands of the musk deer - musk deer. Most often, this animal is found in the Himalayas. The fragrant substance serves the male musk deer to attract females.

The smell of musk cannot be called pleasant even with a stretch. It's hard to endure. When the hunters removed the musk glands from a deer driven by them, they clamped their mouth and nose. The strength of this odor is such that a fatal hemorrhage could occur. Of course, this did not stop the hunters, because musk is an incredibly expensive substance. For this every year, the deer were exterminated by the thousands. For the sake of 30 grams of the active ingredient, it was necessary to get three kilograms of musk, and this is a hundred deer killed.

Of course, people have always tried to synthesize this precious substance. When scientists finally succeeded, it became a sensation. Now it is actively used in perfumery. But a real expert will always be able to distinguish natural from artificial musk by smell. Despite so many substitutes available today, natural musk continues to be incredibly prized by perfumers. Since science and modern technologies do not stand still, mankind has learned not only to synthesize this valuable substance, but also to extract it without killing the animal. They are usually caught, put to sleep, and the secretions of their glands are painlessly taken away. After that, the animal is released into the wild. Perfume lovers can be sure that no animal was harmed while creating your favorite scent!

Zibet

Cibet, or civetin, is a special substance that secretes the glands of certain types of civets. These are relatively small animals from the civerrids family, similar in appearance to cats or martens. They live in Northeast Africa, India and Iran.

Cibetin is a thick, light yellow liquid. Its smell is not only unpleasant, it is disgusting. In air, this substance becomes even thicker and changes color, becomes darker. The characteristic smell of civet is largely due to the substance it contains, civet. It has a pronounced musk scent. Perfumers add it to some very expensive perfumes. This brings the aromatic composition to perfection. For the extraction of civet, animals are caught and kept in captivity. Every week the contents of their glands are removed. At one time, the male can give about ten grams of the valuable substance. Natural civet is extremely expensive. More often, various synthetic substitutes are used in perfumery.

Musk

In perfumery, the use of a substance that is secreted by a musk rat, or muskrat, is very common. It is also isolated only by males of these animals. Their glands contain musk. It is usually obtained from dead animals. In its composition, this odorous substance is close to civet. It differs only in its meager amount. Muskrat musk is used in the manufacture of the finest perfumes. He gives them special stamina.

Castoreum

The beaver stream is extracted from the paired endocrine glands, which beavers of both sexes have. Some connoisseurs argue that the greatest concentration of useful components in the organs of these animals is observed during the period of their mating.

The extraction of the beaver jet is fraught with difficulties. To do this, you first need to find and study the place where these animals live. Then, in order to get this substance, it is not enough to know where the beaver stream is in the body of the animal. It is necessary to observe the necessary technology. Experts say that if the animal suffered before death or its carcass was kept for a long time, then the quality of the raw material will be very low. The most valuable substance can be obtained only when the animal died instantly, without having time to understand what was happening. The contents of the glands must also be cleaned immediately, otherwise the product will acquire a characteristic rotten smell.

The experts value Siberian beavers the most. The smell of their jet is closest to that of leather. Therefore, this substance is more expensive than its Canadian and Baltic counterparts. The beaver stream gives the perfume a particularly spicy, "oriental" scent.

Ambergris

Humanity has come up with even more myths about ambergris than about musk. This substance serves as a very powerful odor fixer. It, too, as you might guess, is of animal origin. This waxy mass is obtained from the abdominal cavity of sperm whales. The smell of this substance is also not very pleasant. It resembles a mixture of the smells of dried seaweed, sea, wood, freshly plowed soil, fine tobacco and light musk.

Ambergris is an incredibly rare and extremely expensive raw material. Today, it is almost impossible to meet her in the composition of perfumes. The aroma of each piece is completely individual. Because of this, this component is not suitable for mass production. "Scented stones" are in great demand in Arab countries and among independent perfumers who work only with natural raw materials.

There are many synthetic substitutes for ambergris. All of them have a constant chemical composition and an extraordinary intensity of odor. Natural ambergris does not have this, because it is an incredibly capricious substance. Subtle perfumes cannot do without amber.

All information people, since the invention of writing, are accustomed to trusting books. Mankind has retained a lot of knowledge only because of this. Including about fragrances and the art of creating perfumes. Read about what secrets are kept by 8 legendary libraries: interesting facts about the world's treasuries of wisdom.