How did perfume production begin in Russia, and where did the famous pre-revolutionary brands disappear?

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

The period from the middle of the 19th to the beginning of the 20th centuries is the heyday of Russian perfumery. Famous brands of that time were demanded by members of the imperial family, received high marks and awards at world exhibitions, were known not only inside, but also far beyond the borders of the country. Young people with European roots, who received an excellent education, came to Russia to develop perfumery. There was no competition in this area, and there were all the opportunities for successful commercial activity.

Who is considered the pioneer of perfumery in Russia

The beginning of the history of the "aromatic" business in Russia is associated with Alfons Antonovich Ralle. In 1842 he came from France to Moscow, and already in 1843 he founded a small soap and perfumery production here, brought expensive equipment and invited experienced specialists from Europe. For the manufacture of eau de toilette, only French and Italian raw materials were used.

In 1855, the small firm expanded into a factory. Ralle perfumes, colognes and powders have become real hits. Cosmetics of this brand could be purchased at the A. Ralle and Co ". In terms of quality, domestic perfumes were not inferior to French ones, and their price was significantly lower. Over time, the founder of the crystal-glass factory F. Dutfua, who made graceful bottles for perfume, became a member of the directorate of the A. Ralle Trading House. To attract buyers, Alfons Antonovich published the "Encyclopedia of Women's Handicrafts", in which he actively advertised his brand. Fans of exquisite fragrances were offered the famous spirits with romantic names "Silver Lily of the Valley", "Source of Love" and "Perfume de Furor" with fresh "crystal" notes.

In 1856, the founder of the brand left for his homeland due to illness, and in Russia the business was run by the Frenchman Edouard Bo. In 1898, his son, Ernest Bo, also got a job here, who in 1920, already in exile, developed the formula of the legendary perfume "Chanel No. 5".

At the beginning of the 20th century, the new products of the trading house were awarded the Grand Prix at the Paris Exhibition. In terms of output and sales, A. Ralle and Co surpassed many French factories; by 1913 it employed more than 1,500 people.

Elite perfumes from confectioner Adolphe Sioux

A young French businessman, Adolphe Sioux, arrived in Moscow in 1853 and opened a small pastry shop on Tverskaya. Having accumulated sufficient capital, in 1861 Sioux decided to expand its activities and, along with confectionery, also produce perfumery.

The elite Sioux and Co perfume was produced according to the principle “High quality - low price”, so not only young ladies from high society, but also women with a modest income could afford them. More budgetary perfumes were sold in glass bottles, expensive ones - in silver bottles, while their composition did not differ.

Sioux relied not on sweet and rich scents, but on subtle cold compositions. Especially popular at that time were the Snegurochka perfume, which became a symbol of youth and freshness. A real sensation was created by the original aroma "Fresh hay", which revealed notes of freshly cut grass and meadow flowers.

By the beginning of the 20th century, more than a hundred names of perfumes and cologne were created at the factory. Also in the assortment were presented gift collections, which included eau de toilette, soap and powder.

Branded boutiques were opened in Moscow and St. Petersburg, branches operated in Europe, and large deliveries were made to Persia and China.

Heinrich Brocard: perfume for the empress and "Red Moscow"

French perfumer Heinrich Brocard arrived in Russia in 1861. For over a year he worked as a hired technologist in the firm of his friend Geek, and during this time he invented a unique method of obtaining a perfume concentrate. He sold his development to the Ruhr Bertrand company for 25 thousand francs, and with the proceeds he founded a soap making workshop in Moscow. The history of his perfumery empire began with the manufacture of baby soap in the form of cubes and animals. The novelties were a tremendous success, and in a couple of years Brocard had amassed enough funds to open a perfume factory.

By the beginning of the 70s of the XIX century, the French perfumer had to compete with the brands "A. Ralle and Co" and "Sioux and Co". To attract buyers, Brocard advertised in the newspaper the opening of a brand boutique on Birzhevaya Street, in honor of which the sale of gift sets for only 1 ruble begins. The set included perfumes, lipsticks for hair and lips, cream and other cosmetics. On the same day, more than two thousand of these sets were bought in the store.

In 1882, the manufacturer presented his new fragrance "Flower" in a very unusual way. A fountain with cologne was installed in the center of the pavilion at the All-Russian Industrial and Art Exhibition. Visitors to the event went home with whole bottles and cans of fragrant water. So the flower cologne won the attention of Muscovites, and later became popular throughout Russia.

After the death of Brocard, his company received the status of a supplier to the Imperial Court. In 1913, in honor of the 300th anniversary of the House of Romanov, the factory produced the Empress's Favorite Bouquet perfume, which in Soviet times became known as Red Moscow.

Favorite perfumery of artists from a former pharmacist and pharmacist

Pharmacist Alexander Ostroumov became a successful perfumer and pioneer of medicinal cosmetics. During his work as a pharmacist, he created an anti-dandruff soap that was popular among both high society and ordinary people. The money earned Ostroumov invested in research and experiments on the development of lotions for acne, skin whitening products and cream for rejuvenation "Metamorphosis", which brought real fame to its creator.

After this success, the former pharmacist decided to focus entirely on creating new fragrances. This initiative was also successful - Ostroumov's perfume water was sold throughout the country and in Europe, occupying a worthy place among the leading domestic brands. The most popular were the Alpine Lily of the Valley and Napoleon fragrances. Among the fans of this brand were Tamara Karsavina, Nadezhda Plevitskaya and many other singers, ballerinas and prima of Moscow theaters. Ostroumov brought them sets of perfumes for free, and they recommended it in their circles.

What happened to perfume factories after the revolution

The history of Russian perfumery began in 1843 thanks to Alphonse Ralle. Before him, only lipstick establishments and small laboratories that produced essences and cosmetic creams worked in Russia. For almost half a century of its development, domestic perfumery has reached the highest level and has become a worthy competitor to European brands. By the beginning of the 20th century, about 30 factories operated in the Russian Empire, not counting small firms. After the revolution, all perfumery enterprises passed to the Soviet regime, changed their activities and were renamed, some of them soon ceased to exist altogether.

Perfume production has declined since 1917. Many perfumers have been expelled from the country, the recipes have been forgotten, and the technology has been lost. It was decided that most factories would only produce soap and other essential hygiene products.

Chepelevetsky's perfume factory was turned into a factory for the production of Profrabotnik soap. Ostroumov did not accept the new regime and left the country, and almost nothing has survived from his legacy. The enterprise of Adolphe Sioux received the name "Bolshevik", under which the famous confectionery factory operates to this day.

In the nationalized production workshops of "A. Ralle and Co" for some time they produced branded perfume, and then the enterprise was transformed into a soap and perfume factory No. 4. To date, the history of the Ralle empire is continued by the cosmetic company OJSC Svoboda. In 1922, Brocard's factory also passed to the Soviet regime, now it operates under the name "New Zarya".

The fragrances that conquered the emperors and successfully competed with foreign brands remained in the Russian Empire. Since 1917, domestic perfumery has not even managed to come close to the level at which it was in the 19th century.

And the famous perfume Chanel №5 could become a Russian brand.