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How the military uniform became female: the uniform dresses of the Russian imperial families
How the military uniform became female: the uniform dresses of the Russian imperial families

Video: How the military uniform became female: the uniform dresses of the Russian imperial families

Video: How the military uniform became female: the uniform dresses of the Russian imperial families
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Uniform dresses of Russian imperial families
Uniform dresses of Russian imperial families

The reigning persons in Russia began to wear military uniforms since the time of Peter I. Many of them became commanders of troops or chiefs of guards regiments with the right to wear the uniform of sponsored regiments. But, starting with the reign of Catherine II, along with men's military uniforms, ladies' uniform dresses appeared, which only women from the family of the ruling monarch had the right to wear. Let's see how these dresses looked on Russian empresses and grand duchesses….

The reign of Catherine II

For the first time, such dresses appeared during the reign of Catherine the Great. Elizaveta Petrovna, who ruled before her, did very well without them, from time to time easily and with pleasure putting on a man's uniform, which, despite its fullness, looked great on her.

Empress Elizaveta Petrovna with the little arapchon. OK. Pfanzelfeld. 1757 g
Empress Elizaveta Petrovna with the little arapchon. OK. Pfanzelfeld. 1757 g

Yes, and on Catherine herself during the seizure of power, an officer's uniform was worn. She also wore a military uniform in the first years of her reign, which is reflected in her portraits of that time, depicting the empress riding a horse and in a man's military uniform.

Virgilius Eriksen. Empress Catherine II on horseback Brilliant. 1762. Great Peterhof Palace
Virgilius Eriksen. Empress Catherine II on horseback Brilliant. 1762. Great Peterhof Palace

But, perfectly understanding to whom she owed her ascension to the Russian throne, and having taken patronage over several regiments, the empress could no longer appear at solemn events in men's clothing - in those years it was considered indecent. It was then that uniform dresses appeared as the female version of the military uniform, and although in their cut they were not very similar to men's suits, their colors and decor exactly coincided with the officers' uniforms of the sponsored regiments.

Tunic dress of the Preobrazhensky regiment 1763
Tunic dress of the Preobrazhensky regiment 1763

This is her first uniform dress in dark green color that really resembles an officer's uniform with gold braids and uniform buttons. But at the same time, a number of other details - a wide skirt, a small train, sleeves with a small winglet at the elbow - make it feminine.

Cuirassier Regiment Tunic Dress
Cuirassier Regiment Tunic Dress
Uniform dress of Catherine the Great. Life Guards Cavalry Regiment
Uniform dress of Catherine the Great. Life Guards Cavalry Regiment

If in her youth Catherine wore fitted dresses, then with age they became looser and wider. For comparison - two uniform dresses of the same regiment, but made in different years:

Uniform dresses of Catherine II in the form of the Preobrazhensky Life Guards Regiment, sewn in 1763 and after 1785
Uniform dresses of Catherine II in the form of the Preobrazhensky Life Guards Regiment, sewn in 1763 and after 1785
Empress Catherine II in a naval uniform dress. Artist S. V. Pen
Empress Catherine II in a naval uniform dress. Artist S. V. Pen

The empress wore her uniform dresses on especially solemn occasions - to military reviews and parades, on national military holidays, or to meetings with officers from sponsored regiments … this tradition until the overthrow of the monarchy in Russia.

The reign of Alexander I

During the reign of Alexander I, there was a war with Napoleon, in those years the military theme, being very popular, penetrated into all areas. Fashion was no exception - the military style became very popular. And uniform dresses began to represent a stylization of a military uniform. They began to use bright details borrowed from the beautiful military uniform of the hussars as their decorations.

The reign of Nicholas I

Under Nicholas I, who ruled for three decades, at first classic uniform dresses came into fashion again, but by the forties this tradition was again lost. Nevertheless, the right to wear a uniform dress was considered very honorable.

Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. Chief of the Cavalier Guard Life Guards Regiment (from 1826 to 1860)
Empress Alexandra Feodorovna. Chief of the Cavalier Guard Life Guards Regiment (from 1826 to 1860)

On the eve of 1845, this right was also awarded to Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna, daughter of Nicholas I, who was appointed chief of the 3rd Elisavetgrad Hussar Regiment. However, on this occasion, she and her father had a small quarrel. "".

Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna. Chief of the Elisavetgrad 3rd Hussar Regiment (from 1845 to 1892)
Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna. Chief of the Elisavetgrad 3rd Hussar Regiment (from 1845 to 1892)

Thus, in this dispute, the princess then managed to defend the "" military uniform. And although the uniform was still more like a military uniform tailored to the figure than a dress from the time of Catherine II, a skirt was left instead of trousers.

The reign of Alexander II

Under Alexander II, the military style went out of fashion, the ladies also almost stopped wearing uniform dresses.

Daughter of Alexander II, Maria, in the uniform dress of the 14th Yamburg Uhlan regiment
Daughter of Alexander II, Maria, in the uniform dress of the 14th Yamburg Uhlan regiment

The reign of Alexander III

During his reign, the military uniform returned, and thanks to his wife Maria Fedorovna, uniform dresses were revived. Possessing a beautiful figure, she preferred the fitted silhouettes of the early Catherine's time. Her dresses, with high collars and wide cuffs, were embellished with embroidery and crest buttons, similar to those that sparkled on officers' uniforms.

Empress Maria Feodorovna in the uniform dress of the Life Guards Cuirassier E. I. V. of the regiment's own name. 1890s
Empress Maria Feodorovna in the uniform dress of the Life Guards Cuirassier E. I. V. of the regiment's own name. 1890s
Uniform dress of the Life Guards Cuirassier E. I. V. Sovereign Empress Maria Feodorovna regiment. End of the 19th century
Uniform dress of the Life Guards Cuirassier E. I. V. Sovereign Empress Maria Feodorovna regiment. End of the 19th century

The reign of Nicholas II

During this period, the priority among the ladies was still the classic uniform dresses. The wife of Nicholas II was rarely seen in such a dress.

Alexandra Feodorovna in a uniform dress
Alexandra Feodorovna in a uniform dress
Nicholas II and Alexandra Feodorovna
Nicholas II and Alexandra Feodorovna

But four daughters grew up in the family, who, as they grew up, traditionally taking patronage over the shelves, gladly put on their uniform dresses.

Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna, eldest daughter of Emperor Nicholas II
Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna, eldest daughter of Emperor Nicholas II
• Grand Duchess Tatyana Nikolaevna, second daughter of Emperor Nicholas II, Chief of the 8th Uhlan Voznesensky regiment (from 1911 to 1917)
• Grand Duchess Tatyana Nikolaevna, second daughter of Emperor Nicholas II, Chief of the 8th Uhlan Voznesensky regiment (from 1911 to 1917)
Grand Duchesses Olga and Tatiana Nikolaevna in the form of sponsored regiments. Tsarskoe Selo, 1910 Olga Nikolaevna - in the form of the 3rd Elisavetgrad hussar regiment, Tatyana Nikolaevna - in the form of the 8th Uhlan Voznesensky regiment
Grand Duchesses Olga and Tatiana Nikolaevna in the form of sponsored regiments. Tsarskoe Selo, 1910 Olga Nikolaevna - in the form of the 3rd Elisavetgrad hussar regiment, Tatyana Nikolaevna - in the form of the 8th Uhlan Voznesensky regiment
Tatiana and Olga's uniform dresses
Tatiana and Olga's uniform dresses
Olga and Tatiana
Olga and Tatiana
Nicholas II with his daughters, Olga and Tatiana, at the parade. Photo from Niva magazine, No. 33 for 1913
Nicholas II with his daughters, Olga and Tatiana, at the parade. Photo from Niva magazine, No. 33 for 1913
Olga with the sponsored regiment
Olga with the sponsored regiment
Nicholas II and Princess Olga Nikolaevna with the hussars of the sponsored regiment
Nicholas II and Princess Olga Nikolaevna with the hussars of the sponsored regiment
Tatiana with the sponsored regiment
Tatiana with the sponsored regiment
Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaevna, third daughter of Emperor Nicholas II, Chief of the 9th Dragoon Kazan Regiment (from 1912 to 1917)
Grand Duchess Maria Nikolaevna, third daughter of Emperor Nicholas II, Chief of the 9th Dragoon Kazan Regiment (from 1912 to 1917)
Image
Image
Maria Nikolaevna's uniform
Maria Nikolaevna's uniform

Choosing sponsored regiments for their ladies, emperors often gave preference to those regiments that had the brightest and most beautiful form - hussars, cavalry guards, lancers …

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