How the eccentric king of Bavaria built his own Versailles and accidentally became a conservationist

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

The last king of Bavaria, the refined and eccentric Ludwig II, remained in history thanks not to reforms or conquests, but to magnificent palaces. He dedicated them to the people who served him as inspiration. One of these creations - the king personally supervised the conduct of the work - Ludwig addressed to his idol, the French monarch Louis XIV.

Ludwig II of Bavaria was known for his selfless love of beauty. He was equally capable of appreciating symphonies, and the purity of the human soul, and the greatness of nature, and palace luxury. On the island of Herren, he conceived to create the quintessence of pure beauty - a palace against the backdrop of romantic nature, where the king could indulge in contemplation and reflection in solitude.

In addition, the king received complaints from the inhabitants of the island. People were outraged that the island of Herren had been bought out by a timber company planning to clear the forest. And the forest was beautiful. Ludwig, without hesitation, bought the island and thereby saved this idyllic corner. True, he himself did not particularly like Herren - the king preferred the mountains. But the flat landscape made it possible to build on a grand scale …

Ludwig's designs were very different from 19th century architecture, although they were just as eclectic and based on historical patterns. Herrenchiemsee was built in the spirit of Versailles - but it was personal Versailles. The King admired Louis XIV, the Sun King - and his namesake. Ludwig visited Versailles several times to thoroughly study it, and regularly visited the construction site and monitored stylistic correspondence. The new castle was to become a kind of temple, a place of worship for the French king. The architects - Georg von Dolman and Julius Hoffmann - tried their best not to disappoint the august client.

However, unlike the real Versailles, Herrenchiemsee was supposed to become revolutionary comfort - lifts, bathrooms, heating and running water with hot water. On the territory of Herrenchiemsee there is even a pool, which is deep enough. The walls of the dressing rooms and baths are decorated with images of ancient Greek deities associated with water.

The main halls and the official apartments of Herrenchiemsee are dominated by the classicizing baroque - a pompous style, where mirrors, gilded wood, marble and crystal are subject to a whimsical, complex plastic. However, in chamber spaces, in Ludwig's private chambers, preference is given to exquisite baroque - rocaille ornaments, gallant scenes, complex shades.

Everywhere, literally everywhere, there are scattered allusions and references to King Louis Lily of the Bourbons on the curtains, a staircase that copies the Ladder of the Messengers at Versailles, blue shades - the king's favorite color - the sun … And, of course, his portraits! But the images of Ludwig, oddly enough, are not there. Unlike his idols, he himself did not like to leave a "mark" in this way.

Gods, goddesses and nymphs coexist with the legendary French king, frolicking on picturesque canvases, indulging in amorous pleasures on trellises and canopies, silently gazing at the guests from deep niches.

However, Herrenchiemsee is not a “fake for Versailles”. It was conceived to be much more luxurious at the same time modern. It also contains innovations that were unusual for that time. For example, a mobile dining table, which was served on the ground floor and was taken by an elevator to the chambers of Louis, who preferred to eat alone.

In one of the halls there is an Astronomical Clock with images of celestial bodies and astrological images - they were made by special order by the Munich watchmaker Karl Schweitzer. The builders have created modern glass roofs that allow high-quality lighting of the premises. Ludwig loved cold and somewhat mystical shades, so his bedroom is illuminated with unusual spherical lamps with cold light.

The interior decoration of the halls and private quarters is the handiwork of many workers' workshops and manufactories throughout Europe. French cabinetmakers created copies of Versailles furniture. The manufactories of Meissen and Sevres made special orders for fireplace vases and sets decorated with allegorical miniatures. The crystal chandeliers came from Vienna. But most of the decoration was done by Bavarian craftsmen.

Ludwig's castles are also associated with images of birds. Herrenchiemsee also has its own feathered keeper - a bronze peacock, covered with blue enamel, lives in the lobby leading to the park. It symbolizes both the Bourbon dynasty and luxury itself. Near the castle there is a splendid park, designed by Karl von Effner on the model of the Versailles regular parks. Linden alleys, flower beds that look like patterned carpets, neat engraved paths and magnificent fountains with figures of ancient goddesses lurking among the hedges. The most beautiful fountain is the Spring of Latona. According to Ovid, the goddess Latona, mother of Apollo and Diana, while in exile, wanted to quench her thirst in the lake. But the peasants, seeing a lonely woman with children, decided to drive her away. For this Latona turned them into frogs - once gilded, their figures adorn the fountain.

Herrenchiemsee, incredibly expensive, was Ludwig's last crazy (and beautiful!) Idea. The king did not have time to enjoy the result. He stayed there for only a few days, supervising the construction - these days many chandeliers and candelabra in the mirror hall were lit, reflected many times and creating a fantastic atmosphere. The fountains were turned on, the searchlights were on, and Ludwig was pleased.

But from a political and economic point of view, things in Bavaria were getting worse, the king was increasingly hiding in his secluded mountain residences - the ministers always had to look for him! Soon the king was declared insane, incapacitated and died under mysterious circumstances. The construction of Herrenchiemsee was never completed, of the seventy designed rooms, only twenty were finished, but even this was simply amazing. Two years after Ludwig's death, the Bavarian Versailles was opened to the public. Today it remains a place of pilgrimage for tourists, and a museum of the "fairy king" is open nearby.