Forgotten at home: how a Kiev woman in exile became a fashionable American designer
Forgotten at home: how a Kiev woman in exile became a fashionable American designer

Video: Forgotten at home: how a Kiev woman in exile became a fashionable American designer

Video: Forgotten at home: how a Kiev woman in exile became a fashionable American designer
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Valentina Sanina-Schlee
Valentina Sanina-Schlee

The Valentino brand is known to all fashionistas in our country, but almost no one knows that in America in the 1930-1950s. was no less popular and successful brand Valentinafounded by a Kiev woman Valentina Sanina-Schlee … At home, she was the muse of Alexander Vertinsky, who dedicated several romances to her, and in emigration Valentina became one of the most popular designers in America, dressing famous Hollywood stars - Greta Garbo, Katharine Hepburn, Paulette Godard, Claudette Colbert and many others. However, she herself looked like a movie star.

One of the most famous designers in the USA
One of the most famous designers in the USA

Very little is known about the pre-revolutionary period of her life. She was born in Kiev in 1894, although in an interview with reporters she claimed that she was 10 years younger. After studying at the gymnasium, Valentina graduated from drama courses and performed on the theater stage. She did not have an outstanding acting talent, but attracted rave reviews for her beauty and wit. In 1918, Sanina moved to Kharkov, where she continued to work as a theater actress.

In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses
In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses
One of the most famous designers in the USA
One of the most famous designers in the USA

Once, in a cabaret at the Kharkov House of Artist, Sanina met Alexander Vertinsky. He later recalled their first meeting: “The serenely serene huge blue eyes with long eyelashes slowly looked at me, and a narrow, rare beauty, hand with long fingers reached out to me. She was very effective, this woman. Her head was exactly in a golden crown. She had slanted cheekbones, a beautifully curved, slightly ironic mouth. In addition, she looked like a fluffy Angora cat … I realized that I was dead, but I was not going to give up without a fight. Soon Vertinsky went on tour to Odessa, and Sanina, along with the retreating white army, ended up in the Crimea.

The female designer who looked like a movie star
The female designer who looked like a movie star
The female designer who looked like a movie star
The female designer who looked like a movie star

For a long time Vertinsky could not forget Valentina Sanina, devoted romances to her, even after many years he wrote poetry about her. She met the entrepreneur Georgy Schlee in Crimea and married him. They left for Turkey, from there they moved to Europe, and then settled in the United States. George became a successful theatrical impresario, Valentina first tried herself as an actress, and then took up clothing design.

Valentine with her husband, 1945
Valentine with her husband, 1945
Valentina Schlee with her husband
Valentina Schlee with her husband

In 1928, Valentina opened her fashion house "Valentina Gowns" in New York, which soon became very popular among the representatives of the Hollywood bohemia. All the most famous actresses wore Valentina dresses. Her outfits were distinguished by a combination of simplicity, convenience and luxury. She brought into fashion Chinese jackets and dresses with Japanese obi belts, turbans and veils, hooded dresses and coats, trousers and coolie hats. In the 1940s. Valentina has become one of the trendiest and most expensive fashion designers in the United States and the most sought-after fashion designer for Broadway productions.

Valentina skirt and hat belonging to Greta Garbo
Valentina skirt and hat belonging to Greta Garbo
One of the most famous designers in the USA
One of the most famous designers in the USA
Valentine in a coolie hat of your own design
Valentine in a coolie hat of your own design

The restrained elegance of the outfits attracted the attention of the Hollywood film star Greta Garbo, who became a regular client of the Valentina Gowns fashion house. It was Valentina who helped shape Garbo's unique style. They became close friends and often appeared in public in the same outfits, emphasizing their external resemblance.

Valentina works with Greta Garbo
Valentina works with Greta Garbo
One of the most famous designers in the USA
One of the most famous designers in the USA

However, this friendship unexpectedly ended in double betrayal. Once in Valentina's atelier, her husband met Greta Garbo and fell in love with her. The actress answered him in return, but he was not going to leave his wife, and at all social events they appeared three together. Later, Garbo even bought an apartment in the same house where the family lived. Valentina had to put up with the fact that Greta and George spent every summer together.

The Schlee family and Greta Garbo
The Schlee family and Greta Garbo
Valentina Sanina-Schlee and Katharine Hepburn in Valentina dress
Valentina Sanina-Schlee and Katharine Hepburn in Valentina dress
Valentina Sanina-Schlee
Valentina Sanina-Schlee

After the death of her husband in 1964, it turned out that he bequeathed all his fortune to Garbo, and Valentina was left with only an apartment in New York. At that time, her career as a designer had already ended. Until the end of her days, she could not forgive her ex-girlfriend for this betrayal. The situation was aggravated by the fact that the rivals continued to live in the same house. They even made a kind of schedule so as not to collide in the hall and not intersect anywhere.

In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses
In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses
One of the most famous designers in the USA
One of the most famous designers in the USA
The female designer who looked like a movie star
The female designer who looked like a movie star

At home, the name of Valentina Sanina-Schlee was forgotten. Her death in 1989 was reported only in the Western media. Many people learned about the designer thanks to the works of the fashion historian Alexander Vasiliev, who wrote about Valentina: “She possessed some incredible magnetism, which is now extremely rare. Such as she, at the beginning of the century, were called femme fatale."

Valentina Sanina-Schlee
Valentina Sanina-Schlee
The female designer who looked like a movie star
The female designer who looked like a movie star
In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses
In the 1940s. she has dressed all the famous Hollywood actresses

When the sale of Greta Garbo's things took place at an auction in 2012, it turned out that every third thing had a Valentina label.

Models created by Valentina Sanina-Schlee. Metropolitan Museum, New York
Models created by Valentina Sanina-Schlee. Metropolitan Museum, New York
Valentina dress and coat that belonged to Greta Garbo
Valentina dress and coat that belonged to Greta Garbo
Valentina Sanina-Schlee
Valentina Sanina-Schlee

Majority chic Hollywood actresses of the 1930s. became style icons thanks to this designer.

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