How Soviet fashionistas of the 1960s reworked Western fashion to fit the realities of the USSR

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

The 60s of the last century became a very favorable period for the citizens of the USSR. Most of them live in a sense of well-being, stability, people receive housing, wages, can satisfy their consumer interests. The desire to dress beautifully, to receive aesthetic pleasure from clothes, fashion trends and to express one's own "I" through appearance becomes logical. The West, dictating fashion, at that time was "sick" with Beatlemania; it, filtering through the "Iron Curtain", somewhat adjusted itself to Soviet reality.

Fashion: no worse than others

After World War II, Soviet fashion began to develop with an eye to the West, but much more slowly. There is also the "merit" of the war years, the inhabitants of the occupied territories saw a different way of life, a different attitude to appearance, different styles. From America and other countries, humanitarian aid was sent, in which, among other things, there was a different clothing unusual for Soviet citizens. And finally, the winners, who returned with trophies, finally shook the foundations of the Soviet fashion industry, showing how foreign fashion lives. And, it is worth noting, the citizens living behind the curtain liked it.

Despite the fact that domestic designers began to draw ideas from Western fashion houses, starting from the 50s, they did it with extreme caution, correlating trends with Soviet reality. For example, they did not even try to offer women the ultra-short mini, which was worn in full in the West. And not at all because the girls themselves would refuse to demonstrate slender legs. Rather, the guardians of morals, who were on duty with rulers at the entrances to educational institutions, would not have let young fashionistas inside (and then there would have been a threat of conversation with their parents, discussion at a meeting and other methods of censure), not to mention the fact that there were also “guardians” of their own. at the fashionable stage.

Soviet fashion had to meet the following requirements: • be practical; • do not harm health, be comfortable to wear; • comply with the norms and standards of medicine and hygiene;

Not a single hint of beauty and style, these two concepts, traditionally in the USSR were considered a whim and a stupid whim. And between beauty and practicality, an equal sign was put.

While the whole world was cutting and wearing new styles, in the USSR they were more worried about the size range being as unified as possible. It is no secret that ready-made clothes did not fit well and often required alteration and adjustment. It was decided to fix this problem without expanding the size range, for example, in height and fullness, but by conducting mass measurements among men and women of different ages in all regions. From these data, an average parameter was deduced, according to which, clothes should have been suitable for 80% of the population. It is worth noting that in this case, regional (national) features of the physique were taken into account.

“Bolshevichka”, based on these parameters, significantly expanded its assortment, things began to be produced in different completeness. So, in 1960, the factory produced coats for 4 types of figures. In any case, this is the most humane way, given that modern women of fashion, despite the abundance of models, colors and textures, from the catwalks are offered images for only one type of figure.

Another trend that was outlined in the Soviet fashion lobbies was a passion for synthetics. Soviet designers rushed to master artificial fabrics, abandoning, perhaps, the most important advantage of the domestic textile industry - natural fabrics. It is enough to remember how much a good-quality woolen coat costs now to find out with a shuddering heart that nylon, vinyl, lycra went off with a bang! to both buyers and manufacturers.

Of course, artificial fabrics have their undeniable advantages - they are more wearable, less wrinkled, more convenient to wash, and besides, they are extremely affordable. These advantages justified the disadvantages in the form of unpleasant textures and low air permeability. Then the love for artificial fur coats began. Moreover, they were also worn by those who could afford natural fur. The latter was considered too old-fashioned and boring. It is worth noting that the trend tends to repeat itself, but now it is served under the sauce of "eco-motivation" and love for animals.

Fashionable thaw

The heyday of fashion trends falls on the 60s. It is during these periods that the attitude of society towards fashion changes, it becomes more friendly and interested, people become more receptive to new products, it is easier to agree to certain experiments. Lyudmila Gurchenko's performance on the official channel with the song "5 minutes" from the movie "Carnival Night" (1956) in a dress that was made according to Western fashion trends becomes an unspoken permission for new images. This became an unspoken signal for designers and ordinary women, opening a new fashionable page in history.

Fashionable life is in full swing, trends are reported in newspapers, both federal, republican and regional. And such news is perceived no worse than editorials about milk yields and feed preparation. Fashion events and shows are actively held, the seasons have tendencies, the collections are beginning to be divided into new and old. Of course, all this was not devoid of a touch of socialism, because even fashion magazines carried out educational work and tirelessly repeated that clothing culture plays an important role in building a bright socialist future.

"Hipsters" were still in disgrace, but rather their clothes were perceived as an exaggeration, "I will put on all the best at once", and not as a crime against Soviet power. So, a small fashionable prank, an attempt to express your individuality through clothes. Well, what youth did not sin with this?

Western films instead of fashion magazines

Despite the fact that Soviet fashion magazines now and then dazzled with photos from shows and prepared materials with a clear listing of fashion trends, they failed to set the main tone. Soviet women drew ideas from cinema, of course, not Soviet at all. The images of Brigitte Bardot were copied with special love. Thanks to her heroines, many Soviet women decided to experiment with hair - lush curls, hair coloring. Jacqueline Kennedy also set the tone not only for world fashion, but also for Soviet fashion. Considering that he just preferred restrained shades and an elegant cut.

It was during this period that it began to be believed that the natural shade of the hair was too simple and they were trying to change it in every possible way. Since there were not so many chemical dyes then, henna, basma and even onion husks with walnut shells were used. The makeup also becomes bright. Arrows are diligently drawn, and often with children's pencils, ink is spattered, bright red lipstick is worn both in the feast and in the world.

The hairpin, so far not worn by domestic women, suddenly bursts into fashion catwalks and it becomes clear that it is perfectly combined with everything else that has already managed to fall in love with fashionistas. And even though the heel fell into the steps of the escalator, made it impossible to walk on the off-road and mercilessly imprinted on the asphalt melted from the heat, the women agreed to these difficulties, just to become the owner of this unprecedented beauty and grace.

At the same time, trousers are not yet in fashion, women in this item of clothing have been criticized, except for work robes and sports images. Therefore, very soon this limitation also fell, trousers began to appear in fashion shows of the 60s with enviable regularity.

Fundamental differences between Western and Soviet fashion

Despite the fact that Soviet fashion developed along Western lines, adopting the main trends, it cannot be said that copying was complete and unambiguous. Rather creatively rethought and adjusted to domestic realities and needs.

Despite the fact that a synthetic boom happened in the USSR, fortunately, it was not possible to completely replace natural fabrics or at least transfer them to a minority. Therefore, the main difference from Western fashion is the fabrics from which the outfits of Soviet fashionistas were sewn. Yet cotton and wool were far more affordable than nylon or lycra. Mainly synthetics were used for sewing smart clothes for going out, and not for everyday ones.

If we talk about silhouettes, despite the general similarity, there were still differences. The Soviet interpretation was more viable. For example, in the USSR, Dior's narrow skirts, in which it was impossible to walk, were never worn. The narrow cut was relevant, but it was not wearable. There is an explanation for this, the Soviet woman was most often a representative of the working class and certainly a working woman, and not a middle-class housewife, which Western fashion was guided by.

Compatriots, although they strove to be beautiful and fashionable according to the Western model, nevertheless understood that in these skirts and blouses they would have to run to kindergarten in the morning, then get to work, and by public transport, and then, after work, also bring on myself a couple of staples with groceries. Dior's silhouettes, forgive me, are quite inappropriate here. Therefore, any fashionable trend in the Soviet manner was more mundane and adapted to life.

Of course, the domestic textile industry left its mark on the preferred colors. Firstly, the passion for practical colors and non-marking shades has not gone anywhere, but what is there, still black and brown are the most relevant colors when it comes to basic wardrobe items or shoes and accessories. Secondly, the funky calico was the most affordable fabric, and therefore a similar color was used for sewing.

Two opposite trends in shades coexisted very peacefully, given the fact that a Soviet woman is a comrade, colleague and friend, and only then a wife, mother and just a woman, it was clearly clear where to wear a brown woolen suit, and where a bright green skirt - Sun. Here, mistakes were rare, and the dress code existed in almost all institutions.

Considering that the USSR was a multinational country, clothes were also used for the self-identification of peoples, national elements were actively introduced, which referred to the folk costume. It could be a color, cut, silhouette, a certain detail, accessories. In the West, this was not practiced and was a domestic know-how.

In terms of silhouettes, Soviet clothing patterns were softer and smoother, while Western designs dictated a rigid, angular shape. This is explained not only by the role of a working woman in the Union, but also by the type of figure. Not all Soviet beauties could boast of a Gurchenko-style waist and an hourglass silhouette.

Iconic items of the 60s or wardrobe must have

The breakthrough has certainly made some things iconic, although this happens at all times, and certain wardrobe details begin to symbolize an entire era. For the Soviet wardrobe of the 60s, Bologna begins to play a huge role. In fact, this is a rather ambiguous fabric of too narrow a direction. You can't sew anything other than an anther or a raincoat out of it. Actually, this element of the outer wardrobe was made from it, and Soviet citizens willingly wore it.

Italian raincoats were then at the peak of popularity, but they were very expensive, and it was problematic to find them, because they were worn only in a narrow circle. In Italy, by the way, they were used as work clothes. The armpits of these raincoats had small holes for air ventilation. But it helped badly, because the park perfectly corresponded to its name - people actually steamed in it. Although if you put on such a raincoat over a sweater, then you could go like this until late autumn.

The colors were different, the most common was blue, there were also brown, red, and a scarf (a typical work uniform) should also go to a real "firm".

Another Soviet love is mohair. It was also worth fabulous money, scarves and mohair hats were worn by both men and women. The more active ones whipped and combed their scarves to make them look "mohair". A luxury men's outfit - a sheepskin coat, a muskrat hat and a mohair scarf - very few could afford.

You could knit a mohair scarf yourself, but it couldn't be cheap either. A gram cost about 1 ruble. But this is not scary, the craftswomen managed to knit a light spider web, which took the minimum amount of yarn, and then combed it for a larger volume. A lining was made for such a product and it was not only fashionable, but also warm.

Mohair was preferred by older ladies, those who built a babbet on their heads and so that the hairstyle would fit into a hat, it was washed and dried in three-liter cans, thus stretching the shape of a head with a structure of hair.

Crimplen fabric was ultra-demanded at that time, bright colors, a special texture of the fabric - this made suits made of such fabric the most desirable in the wardrobes of fashionistas. Well, let it be solid synthetics. Nylon shirts have been sought after by both men and women. Moreover, in the female version, a luxurious frill was often attached to the blouse. The colors were trendy, in the male version, the dark burgundy was especially appreciated.

The first ladies of the USSR had tremendous opportunities compared to other women. They traveled to other countries, talked to fashion designers and could wear what they wear in the West. But not all the spouses of the first persons of the state used this opportunity, considering that fashion and aesthetics are the tenth and not worth the attention of a Soviet citizen..