Dress for Marilyn Monroe, Conquering the Moon and Saving Mussolini's Daughter: Curves of Fate Emilio Pucci
Dress for Marilyn Monroe, Conquering the Moon and Saving Mussolini's Daughter: Curves of Fate Emilio Pucci

Video: Dress for Marilyn Monroe, Conquering the Moon and Saving Mussolini's Daughter: Curves of Fate Emilio Pucci

Video: Dress for Marilyn Monroe, Conquering the Moon and Saving Mussolini's Daughter: Curves of Fate Emilio Pucci
Video: Павлов-Андреевич – из телевизора в акционизм (English subs) - YouTube 2024, November
Anonim
Image
Image

He wrote a dissertation on fascism and fled from fascist Italy, dressed skiers and astronauts, came up with truly sportswear and created unusually feminine dresses. The life of Emilio Pucci is a series of contradictions, and he himself seemed to have stepped out of the pages of an adventure novel …

Pucci dress
Pucci dress

The future king of prints came from an ancient aristocratic family, grew up in a luxurious old palace and could not take a step without a servant. Since childhood, he adored skiing, at the age of seventeen he seriously dreamed of participating in the Olympics in Lake Placid. He took a trip to the land of his dreams - however, he never got to the start. In addition, the young man was left penniless in the United States, but he became a ski team coach at Reed College. There, he resignedly took upon himself not only the coaching work, but also washing dishes or cleaning. A handsome and energetic young man, he knew how to win people over - the popularity of skiing at Reed College skyrocketed. At the same time, he became interested in clothing design and developed a logo for the uniform of the sports team entrusted to him. Already in 1937, Pucci demonstrated his first collection of sportswear, very progressive, and organized the show accordingly. Skiers in bright overalls instead of the usual sweaters tucked into their pants rolled down the soapy boards at an angle. The new suits reduced air resistance and were significantly warmer than the usual ski uniforms. However, the fashionable career of Pucci was interrupted by the war.

Ski suits from Pucci
Ski suits from Pucci

During his life in the United States, Pucci became interested in the ideas of Italian fascism. He even wrote a thesis on “Fascism. Explanation and Justification . After graduating from college, Emilio was drafted into the army, took part in aerial combat in Ethiopia and even earned a reputation as a real ace. It is unknown when Pucci became close to Mussolini's daughter Edda. There is a version that they were in love with each other - and this makes all subsequent events especially dramatic. The husband of Edda (the marriage, however, was not happy) supported the removal of Mussolini from power and was shot. Edda found herself in a difficult situation, she feared for her life - and then Emilio Pucci came to the rescue. He sewed a belt for Edda of a special design, where she hid the papers given by her husband - diaries full of information about Mussolini's activities, political alliances, Italy's plans for further hostilities … Edda Mussolini in the guise of a pregnant peasant woman managed to move to Switzerland. Pucci was unable to go with her, but sent three more children and Mussolini's grandson to Italy. Intending nevertheless to leave Italy, he made an attempt to escape, fell into the hands of German soldiers and was interrogated by the Gestapo.

Tracksuits from Pucci
Tracksuits from Pucci

After suffering torture, he agreed to meet with Edda in Switzerland. It is rather strange that the Gestapo decided to let him go - they say that it was not without the participation of some mysterious spy. And, of course, he did not come back. Pucci recovered for a long time, head injuries received during interrogation made themselves felt. But soon he resumed his skis - after all, where, if not in Switzerland, rush faster than the wind from the snow-covered slopes? He returned to his passion for fashion with a collection of women's ski jumpsuits. And he did not forget about himself - in 1948 Pucci in a bright overalls of his own authorship got into the lens of a fashion photographer, and then on the pages of Harper's Bazaar.

Silk dress with print
Silk dress with print
Collection of dresses and suits of Pucci
Collection of dresses and suits of Pucci

Emilio opened his first boutique in his native Florence, because it was the Florentine mosaic that inspired him to invent bright geometric prints. This was followed by the opening of a boutique in Rome and world fame. From sportswear, Pucci moved on to creating elegant scarves, and then - women's outfits.

Dresses by Pucci from the 50s
Dresses by Pucci from the 50s
Emilio Pucci with models. Costume sketch
Emilio Pucci with models. Costume sketch

Anticipating the era of the hippie, Pucci was the first to propose an abstract print of cheerful shades on the fabric. Silk dresses from Pucci were adored by all Hollywood stars - Gina Lollobrigida, Elizabeth Taylor, supermodel Veruschka, and Jacqueline Kennedy was a big fan of his work. And Marilyn Monroe hung up to bury her in a Pucci outfit …

Left - Marilyn Monroe in Pucci's dress
Left - Marilyn Monroe in Pucci's dress
Pucci suit and jumpsuit
Pucci suit and jumpsuit

The designer was fascinated by technical progress - new dyes, new fabrics, new fibers … He became a pioneer in the use of synthetic elastic materials. In 1971, Emilio Pucci designed astronaut suits for the Apollo 15 mission, the fourth manned landing on the moon. Pucci's empire grew and expanded, gradually moving to the creation of home textiles, glasses and jewelry. And he was also the first to conduct … a sale.

Models in outfits from Pucci
Models in outfits from Pucci

Over time, the designer became disillusioned with the political ideas that he once followed, although he never tired of repeating that fascism was "spoiled by specific people." He was elected for two terms to the Italian Chamber of Deputies, oddly enough, from the Liberal Party, and until the end of his life he supported Reed College, where he once spent the most cloudless years of his life.

Today the Emilio Pucci brand is run by the founder's daughter, Laudomiya. Emilio Pucci, who himself was interested in politics in his youth, did not want to listen to the fact that his daughter was dreaming of a political career. She dreamed of a dissertation in the field of political science, wanted to study communism, the history of the Soviet Union, but … her father decided everything for her. At the same time, he was not going to give his daughter any creative freedom within the company - and this made her life unbearable. After working for two years in his company, Laudomiya fled … and ended up on an internship with Givenchy - his father agreed, again judging in his own way. For several years, Laudomia was in charge of working with clients under the supervision of Hubert Givenchy. In 1992 she returned to her father's company, and after a couple of months she was forced to take the reins … In our brand Emilio Pucci produces clothes with the same psychedelic prints, both sports and casual, accessories and even perfume. The new collections of the fashion house are still inspired by Italian antiquity, the slopes of the Alps, freedom and love, they still make one think about incredible travels, dangerous adventures and the luxury of ancient Italian estates …

Recommended: