How the Chinese tradition of tea drinking became Russian, and what changes has undergone

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

The magnificent poet Andrei Voznesensky wrote that the Russian soul "has the shape of a samovar." Yes, it seems that tea drinking, fragrant smoke on cups, a puffing samovar - this is all primordially Russian, traditional, originated in Russia. But in fact, everything is not quite so, and when tea appeared in Russia, it was not initially accepted and appreciated. Today the Russian samovar is a kind of symbol of Russia. When did the Russian people start drinking tea, what kind of samovars were there, where they should put a teaspoon, how they should behave during tea drinking, and what has China to do with it?

When did tea appear in Russia: from rejection of Ivan III to tea commotion under Catherine II

When, back in 1462, the first tea brought by Chinese merchants appeared in Russia, Ivan III did not appreciate this drink. Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich treated tea with the same bewilderment and contempt, having received it as a gift from Altyn Khan in 1638. Four pounds of tea were lost somewhere among the royal entourage. It seems that they still drank it on the sly, because when in 1665 Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich fell ill with a stomach, his associates brought him to taste the tea. The drink helped the king, and he joyfully ordered to establish regular purchases in China.

Gradually Russians liked the aromatic drink very much. When Catherine II ascended the throne, tea drinking began to develop very actively. At least 6,000 camels loaded with tea leaves were delivered to Russia annually. Gradually, fruit drinks, mead, kvass faded into the background. And more and more tea was needed, they began to bring it from India and Ceylon, by sea, through Odessa, and since 1880, when the Trans-Siberian Railway opened, then by train. In St. Petersburg, they adored tea with a floral hue and tips, but in Moscow they enjoyed using the varieties “silver needles”, “pearl”, “imperial liansin”.

Nobles, merchants, diners, commoners - all have their own ceremonies

Everyone has heard about the Chinese tea ceremony, but not everyone knows that Russian tea traditions also had their own characteristics. Nobles, merchants, landowners, bourgeois, and commoners drank tea in different ways. For example, aristocrats did their best to imitate the British, citizens of the bourgeois estate, that is, employees, petty officials, merchants tried to keep up, but they did not always succeed, and they drank tea without any special "troubles". As for the common people, they had no time for ceremonies. It would be nice to eat after work, drink hot tea, and sleep as soon as possible. And there you look in the morning, back to work.

Tea drinking became so popular that it was used to solve important matters. Over a cup of tea, they could agree on an engagement, make an important deal, even make up after a long feud. The townspeople loved to drink tea and listen to music and singing. They say that it was during tea meetings that such a popular musical genre as romance was formed. Today it is difficult to imagine the life of Russians without tea drinking.

But the samovar, it turns out, is not a Russian invention, and from where it was brought to Russia

It seems that it can be more Russian than a samovar? But no. This item also came from abroad. For example, in ancient Iran, Japan and China there were so-called tsibati and ho-go. And the ancient Romans used a semblance of a samovar, autepsa, which is a vessel with two containers - for coal and water. There was a hole on the side, where hot coal was placed, and the liquid was poured using a ladle, since the device did not have a tap. When it was very hot, ice was put in the coal compartment.

The first samovar appeared in Russia under Peter I - the tsar brought it from Holland. And already in 1812, a factory of Vasily Lomov was opened in Tula, and she took up the production of samovars. The quality of the products was so high that the tsar honored the factory to wear the state emblem of Russia. There were many masters of samovar business with a brand name: Vorontsovs, Shemarins, Batashevs, Vanykins. The samovar became not only a container for tea, it was a real work of art. They were made in different shapes and sizes, a beautiful design was chosen, in general, the creative potential was used in full.

Initially, samovars were heated with coal or wood. Only at the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th century, other types began to be produced, for example, the famous Chernikov samovar (copper, with a pipe), as well as a kerosene version. Soviet people remember very well the electric models that were placed in the center of the table during the holidays.

Who drank tea from a saucer and how you could talk with a teaspoon

Often in Soviet films about pre-revolutionary Russia, you can see how a burly merchant's wife pours tea into a saucer and sips deliciously. When it was necessary to portray a cabman or a servant, this technique was also used - noisily drawing tea from a saucer. Perhaps this was not only the case in films. But high society has always considered this method too vulgar.

By the way, in fact, both merchants and commoners drank tea with sugar with a bite, that is, they did not put it in a cup. It was believed that this is tastier and more economical. Indeed, during the tea party, they could drink up to 10 cups. When the limit came and the human body no longer took liquid, the cup or glass was turned upside down. This was done in the 18-19 centuries, it was a kind of sign, meaning that "I shouldn't pour more tea." Aristocrats put sugar in tea, and gently stirred with a teaspoon. While the process was going on, the spoon waited on the saucer, but if it was necessary to signal the mistress of the house that she did not want to drink any more, she should have been put in an empty cup. Such a peculiar tea language.

When the fashion for tea sets began

Tea sets have always been the dream of housewives, no matter what country they lived in. When china began to be produced in Europe in the 18th century, it was so expensive that not everyone could buy it. But soon porcelain became cheaper and sets became more affordable.

In Russia, luxurious tea sets were made at the Imperial Porcelain Factory, which was founded in 1744 in St. Petersburg. When Catherine II came to power, the factory began to make amazing family tea sets. In 1925 the plant was renamed and began to bear the name of Mikhail Lomonosov. But even today LFZ is the most famous supplier of Russian porcelain. Thin, bellsq, transparent bone china is in incredible demand all over the world. As for Russia, for example, in taverns or in ordinary houses of low income, earthenware was used.

In the USSR, the sets were carefully kept and passed on to children as an inheritance. The German Madonna was the best gift for a wedding or any other significant date.

By the way, there are many myths about the birthplace of tea. Which, in fact, turn out to be true. For example, why the Chinese chomp while eating, as well as other facts about the Middle Kingdom that cannot be found in textbooks.