17 majestic mountain peaks that few have conquered

2024 Author: Richard Flannagan | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-15 23:55

Mountains call and beckon, dizzy with their grandeur and inaccessibility. And what risks do climbers and rock climbers take in order to conquer the summit. But as regrettable as it may sound, many of them never reach their goals, becoming victims and hostages of the mountains forever …

1. Punchak Jaya (4884 m.), Indonesia

Punchak Jaya is the highest point between the Himalayas and the Andes and is located in the Papua province of Indonesia. This is one of the famous "Seven Peaks" of Papua New Guinea, the ascent of which did not take place until 1962. Few have climbed this mountain, partly because of the political instability in the region, but also because of its remoteness. Punchak Jaya is a steep granite wall. It is the only climbing peak of the seven, and it takes a trek through dense forest to reach base camp. Therefore, climbers must be prepared for both heat and snow. Although there is no ice at the top, there are glaciers on the slopes, which in every possible way impede the ascent and descent.

2. Punchak Mandala (4757 m.), Indonesia

It is the second largest free-standing mountain in Indonesia (after Punchak Jaya), located in Papua, which was first ascended in 1959. After four thousand meters, a huge fog appears on the mountain, so climbers must be prepared for poor visibility conditions. Therefore, climbing this mountain, like all others, is suitable for experienced hikers who are familiar with climbing equipment. Another factor that increases the danger is the dense forests in the highlands below the peak, which make navigation extremely difficult.

3. Mount Rainier (4392 m.), USA

Also known as Tacoma, it is one of the most dangerous active volcanoes in the world and one of the most glacial mountains in the United States, which, along with high altitude and unpredictable weather, makes it a veritable mountaineering challenge. All climbing routes require many technical skills, including familiarity with equipment such as ice axes, cat sticks, harness and ropes. The difficulty level depends on the route chosen: the Emmons Glacier route belongs to the second level and is relatively easier, while the Liberty Ridge route is of the IV class and is much more dangerous due to avalanches and ice falls.

4. Mount St. Elijah (5489 m.), USA / Canada

Located on the Yukon-Alaska border, Mount St. Elijah is the second highest peak in both Canada and the United States. The first ascent took place in 1897 (by the prince) and only a century later the first winter ascent of Mount St. Elijah was made. The peak is known for its incredible vertical relief: its summit rises to 5489 meters in just 16 kilometers, which makes the descent especially treacherous. Although it is not very high in terms of altitude, the climb is dangerous due to the long periods of bad weather and the lack of easy routes to the summit.

5. Logan (5959 m.), Canada

Highest peak in Canada. Mount Logan is located near the Yukon-Alaska border and is also the origin of the Hubbard and Logan Glaciers. The temperature there is very low: when a climber reaches a plateau at an altitude of five thousand meters, the air temperature is about -45 degrees Celsius in winter, and an ice cap forms in summer. Anyone trying to climb Mount Logan should have significant experience working with glaciers, especially with regard to rescuing a crevasse and other snow and ice techniques (spasms, self-deception, moving on a glacier with a rope), because it is the cold here that is quiet and the most dangerous killer.

6. Denali (6194 m.), USA

It is the highest peak in North America and one of the most isolated peaks on earth. The Denali climb has a success rate of around 50% and there are many deaths on the mountain every year due to altitude and extreme temperatures (down to -59 degrees Celsius). Another factor is that the mountain attracts amateurs who are not mentally and physically prepared for a long expedition.

7. Cerro Paine Grande (2884 m.), Chile

Cerro Paine Grande is the highest peak in the Cordillera group of mountains in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, which has been successfully climbed only four times: in 1957, 2000, 2011 and 2016. All ascents were made by accessing the upper glacial plateau from the west. The ascent is insidious because there can be breaks and cracks under the snow, so even experienced climbers with the consciousness of ice climbing face many different difficulties in order to overcome the ascent.

8. Cerro Torre (3128 m.), Chile / Argentina

This mountain is located in the south of Patagonia, and is also located in South America, bordering Chile and Argentina at the same time. It is well known for the peculiar layer of ice that formed at its summit due to the constant, strong and cold winds from the ocean. The danger of climbing lies in the melting of ice, as well as the possibility of an ice avalanche. In addition, there were only a few cases where climbers reached the summits, since there are not many paths to climb, which makes it much more difficult.

9. Fitz Roy (3128 m.), Chile / Argentina

Another mountain in the South Patagonian Icefield. The first ascent and ascent of Fitz Roy took place in 1952 from the southeastern ridge. It is best to climb during the southern hemisphere summer months, from December to February, and yet climbers are at the mercy of the inconsistent Patagonian weather at any time of the year. The final ascent is as brutal as it is rewarding: it takes special skill, experience and tremendous perseverance to endure steep granite cliffs, slippery clones and unpredictable weather conditions.

10. Cotopaxi (Cotopaxi) (5897 m.), Ecuador

Cotopaxi is an active stratovolcano in the Andes, and the second highest peak in Ecuador. The last eruption was in 2016, so it was closed for climbing for a year. The mountain has some unique aspects of its structure: it has one of the only equatorial glaciers in the world and a huge crater at its summit. The first ascent and ascent to the mountain happened in 1872. This place is known for numerous ice slopes and cracks that must be crossed in order to reach the summit.

11. Siula Grande (6344 m.), Peru

Siula Grande is the summit of the Huayhuash mountain range in the Peruvian Andes. The summit has numerous central walls that are difficult to climb and climb. Both rock climbing and ice climbing are involved, and the descent is especially painful.

12. Huascaran (6768 m.), Peru

Huascaran is a mountain located in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range in the western Andes. It is the fourth tallest mountain in South America and the highest peak in Peru. The main difficulties are cracks, which are notorious for blocking the route, and the danger of avalanches. In addition, at least a week of acclimatization and some experience of working at high altitudes are required, but the ascent itself is moderately difficult.

13. Ojos del Salado (6893m), Chile / Argentina

Ojos del Salado is the tallest active volcano in the world. This peak is located along the Argentina-Chile border in the Andes. The best time to climb is from December to March, but it will be windy and dry nonetheless. The main problems during the ascent are altitude, strong wind, in places gusts of which reach up to 80 kilometers per hour and cold, the temperature of which, with each approach to the summit, fluctuates from minus 25 to minus 30 degrees Celsius.

14. Aconcagua (6962 m.), Argentina

Aconcagua is the tallest mountain outside Asia, located in Argentina in the Andes Mountains. The first recorded ascent took place in 1897 along the northwest ridge, which is now considered the "normal" and unmistakable peak route. This mountain is arguably the tallest non-tech mountain in the world, because if you approach it using the usual route, you won't need a lot of equipment. But people underestimate the effects of altitude and weather, and there are many casualties despite the relative ease of climbing due to inclement weather.

15. Mount Kenya (5199 m.), Kenya

Mount Kenya, a long dormant volcano, is the tallest mountain in Kenya and has been covered in ice for thousands of years. The national park protects the area around the mountain. Most of the peaks on Mount Kenya have been climbed, even the ice routes. Batian is the true summit of Mount Kenya that rises above Cape Lenana (the most popular stop and highest point that can be reached without climbing). Ice routes (such as the Diamond Couloir) are becoming especially dangerous at this time, as ice levels recede, foreshadowing disaster.

16. Kilimanjaro (5898 m.), Tanzania

Kilimanjaro is another dormant volcano, this time in Tanzania, and the highest peak in Africa. It is extremely popular as a trekking destination and has been in use since the 1800s. Although the climb is not as technically challenging as the Himalayas or the Andes, low temperatures, high altitude, and strong winds can make it difficult to climb and cause altitude sickness.

17. Mount Vinson (4892 m.), Antarctica

The Vinsonsky Massif is a large mountain range in Antarctica, about twenty one kilometers long. Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, lies on the northern side of this massif. The first ascent took place in 1966 and this peak has received considerable attention as it is one of the "Seven Summits". The climate of this peak is fairly stable, but as with any polar climate, the region is prone to strong winds and snowfalls. Isolation, extreme temperatures and winds make it dangerous, causing severe frostbite.

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